Monday, 15 April 2013

What does $1.25 a day mean to you?


Living under $1.25, isn’t that the definition of poverty? Yes, according to the World Bank this is the definition of ‘extreme poverty’ with under $2 a day being defined as ‘moderate poverty’. This is a definition that is held by the majority of states, private, educational and civil institutions around the world. This statistic informs global policies (such as the Millennium Development Goals), national priorities all the way down to civil society interventions. But what does this statistic actually mean?


Percentage of population living on less than $1.25 per day, 2009

Using the purchasing power parity can only take us so far. The poverty line of an individual shifts depending on the country, area, cost of living, their family circumstance, cultural practices and access to social capital. For example survival in rural South Africa cannot be equated to survival in urban South Africa. Also, this statistic hinges on the idea of monetary income as the universal indicator of wealth and subsequent well being, this is not always the case.
I spent a year living in India, surviving on what would be defined as ‘moderate poverty’. This was extremely challenging in the city, having to negotiate transport, ration water, hustle the cheapest food (note the cheapest, not necessarily the most nutritious or balanced) and overhauling completely what I thought to be my priorities (little did I know that I could in fact survive without cheese). However, I also spent time in a rural village where I did not spend a cent in a week. I lived in a communal family dwelling, spent the day working in the rice paddies which earned me a meal from greens harvested in the community garden. The river was used for water, washing and ablutions (I recommend you research the uses of neem, it will change your life), dried cow dung for fire and the local drunk uncle was the entertainment. Needless to say if I had $1.25, I wouldn’t have known what to spend it on. 
Choosing a definition for poverty is tricky. Is poverty an absolute or relative condition? What is a decent standard of living? Is income the most important factor to take into account? How is it that individuals, families and communities ‘make a plan’? These are some of the questions we are hoping to explore and make real for ourselves by living on $1.25 a day in various major cities in Africa. How do we construct a definition that can speak to the reality experienced by millions?  

                                                                  Urban Ahmedabad

Rural Panchgani

By Ishtar Lakhani (@T2T_Ishtar)

Monday, 8 April 2013

Where it all began...


Remember when you were young?  I do.  I remember a time of dreams and expectations, and above all, a time of promises to myself to live a life less ordinary.  To achieve something truly exceptional before its all over.  One moment that has remained lodged in my memory was from a cold winter night in Grahamstown in the nineties, when I was a brash young first year student at Rhodes University.  I was having coffee with one of my residence mates, it was about 2am and we had been talking shit for several hours.  It was then that I noticed, for the first time, that my friend had a large map of Africa on his wall.  I had seen maps of Africa before, but this one was different.  In addition to the usual basic national borders this map featured a level of detail that I had never seen before.  This map had roads, and these roads led directly from places I knew all the way to places I had only read about and even to places I had always thought were fictional, like Timbuktu.

I was hooked.  I returned to that map many times that year, following the thin, winding tendrils of road from the Johannesburg I knew to places that became the growth points of my dreams.  Places like Ouagadougou.  Tambacounda.  Bangui.  Morogoro.  Tataouine.  Yes, Tataouine – where Luke Skywalker grew up.  But more on that later.  I resolved during those bold, dreamtime days that I would venture up those winding roads, explore those mysterious places for myself and live the exceptional life I had been craving for so long.
Rhodes was a great university for honing my newfound interest in the glorious continent to the north, as it was a popular choice for students from places like Zimbabwe, Kenya, Ghana and Malawi.  I got to know many of them and never tired of asking them about the places they came from.  In time I started going to visit, and I’ve been discovering Africa ever since.  By 2006 I was engaged to an irresistible force of nature named Tracy Hammond, and we were looking for wedding venues in Malawi and Mozambique by driving there in our Honda Jazz.  It turned into an epic three week adventure that I will write about next week.


By Matthew Angus-Hammond (@T2T_Matt)

Monday, 1 April 2013

5 Things to do in Nairobi, Kenya


From 2008 to the end of 2009 Matt & I lived in Ngong just outside of Nairobi, Kenya. On our very first weekend in Nairobi we excitedly got out our guidebooks to find our very first adventure in our new city. We were a bit baffled to find that all of the various brands of guidebooks not only had very little information on the city but in fact were rather disparaging of it! One said, and I’m paraphrasing here, that there is no point visiting Nairobi other than as a stop off point to get somewhere else in Kenya, but if you do get stuck there’s nothing to do so go to the mall and watch a movie! Having spent as much time as we did in Nairobi I can say with absolute confidence that this is complete nonsense – the city is packed with all sorts of historical, cultural and wildlife experiences. Here are my favourite 5:  

1) Kitengela Glass

It's a long and rather rough road to get to this magical wonderland but worth every second of the trip! You know you're getting close when strange but beautiful statues made of glass, metal, wire, tyres and more start appearing in the landscape. The first thing that makes the trip worth while are the spectacular views of the Nairobi skyline en route and then you arrive in a make believe surreal world ideally set in the Kenyan bush...
Here you can wonder around the property filled with quaint, straight out of a story book sort buildings -  some filled with shops, other workrooms and even some accommodation; visit the actual hot glass workshop as well as get some fabulous deals at the factory shop. For more visit Kitengela's website or follow them on Facebook.

2) Tradestar Exim Agencies

Not only an amazing empowerment project completely locally run but also the place that offers the best variety and quality sisal woven handbags in the entire city. Located on Mbono road, parallel to Thika road near Muthaiga, it can be a little tricky to find but the weaving women usually sitting outside working in the sun should help. The best part of supporting this initiative is that you can pick your own handles, style, colours etc. for your bag and have it made while you wait! You will also find beaded belts, sisal & beaded wine holders, beaded necklaces, sisal place mats among many other unique gems not available in the local markets. Contact Charles at tradexim4@yahoo.com for more.

3) Olorgesailie Pre-Historic Site

A 90 minute drive from Nairobi straight down to the bottom of the Rift Valley is this prehistoric site with fossil findings still in their original spots, excavations in progress open for viewing and wide, open, quiet spaces in one of Kenya's most unique landscapes.  Located on Magadi road, Olorgesailie has excellently preserved biological and cultural evidence about the evolution of man and human tools are the most prominent of all fossils found here. In fact it is currently on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites tentative list and so will soon be considered for full status.  It is very hot on the Rift Valley floor and there is no shop at the museum so be sure to take plenty of cold drinks and water. There are camping facilities available too, but again be sure to bring everything you may need with you. A great lunch stop 20 minutes away from Olorgesailie is Ribs Village, a local spot with the best Nyama Choma of any we tasted in Kenya! For more information visit the National Museums of Kenya website or the UNESCO site

4) David Sheldrick Rhino & Elephant Orphanage

This incredible centre on the outskirts of Nairobi looks after orphan elephants and rhinos, ensuring that they are able to be re-introduced into Kenya's national parks. Each elephant or rhino is assigned a keeper who stays with them for the duration of their stay at the centre. Their role is to hand rear their charges, even sleep next to them and most importantly accompany the orphans into the Nairobi National park each day, thus ensuring they spend as much time in their natural environment as possible. Once a day for only an hour the public are allowed to witness feeding time and get up close and personal with these sweet personality filled creatures. For more visit their website or follow the centre on Twitter

5) Giraffe Centre

A 15-20 minute drive from the David Sheldrick Rhino & Elephant Orphanage, here you can interact with, feed and even kiss a giraffe at eye level on raised platforms. This very special and rare experience is enhanced by excellently informed and multilingual staff always close at hand to teach you something or put nervous visitors at ease. The centre also has a great restaurant right next to the raised platforms, nature trails, accommodation, one of Nairobi's best priced and greatest variety gift stores and some very entertaining, very fat warthogs to boot! Best of all every cent of profits goes towards conservation and education so not only fun but sustainable & responsible tourism too! For more information visit their website or find them on Facebook

By Tracy Angus -Hammond (@T2T_Trace)