Refuel regularly. The distances are vast, and most of southern Namibia has a landscape that looks like the surface of Mars – desolate, rocky and searingly hot – the sort of place you really don’t want to run out of fuel in. The people are exceptionally helpful, friendly and welcoming, but there are very few of them around. Pick up a couple of five litre water bottles and keep them full, just in case.
Take regular stops or change drivers
frequently. The roads are in very good
condition, even the dirt tracks, but they are so long and straight and the
landscape can get monotonous, making it much easier for the driver to lose
concentration. After 200km without a
single village or even a bend in the road, a goat or gemsbok can appear out of
nowhere and catch you completely off guard.
Ideally, find a place to rest up around
lunchtime when the heat is fiercest. One
of the best places to do this is the Canon Roadhouse, at the northern edge of
the Fish River Canyon. After miles of
dusty nothing you stumble upon an oasis of retro quirkiness – a restaurant
filled with beautiful old cars, classic old signs, good food, cold drinks and
excellent hospitality. Hippies must
enter through the side door, as per the sign:) You can spend the night if you like, or just
take a couple of hours to absorb the ambience, refresh and recharge before
pushing on.
The other great place to stay in the Canyon area is the Ai-Ais Hot Springs Resort. It is well serviced and well run and the starting point for some great hikes up the canyon. There is a large swimming pool which is incredibly inviting after a long day through the desert, but you’ll get a bit of a shock when you jump in and find its actually a warm spa pool fed by the Ai-Ais hot spring nearby! Getting out is the refreshing part, but the water is great for tired and sore muscles. The restaurant is excellent. Secure your tent/room well – the baboons are a bit of a nuisance. It is a much better bet than the Hobas camp further north (near the Fish River Canyon viewsite) which is near this spectacular location but not as well run as Ai-Ais.
As you get further north, Namibia begins to get
busier. Rehoboth, a town about an hour
south of Windhoek, is the first place that shows signs of recent
development. Its quite a bustling little
place and has a fascinating history.
Rehoboth was founded in the 19th century by a group of Griqua
trekkers from the Cape Colony. They
founded a de facto independent state, much like Stellaland near where Kimberley
is today, and became known as the Rehoboth Basters. Their descendants still live there today, but
it has also become something of a commuter town for people working in
Windhoek. Watch out for the sudden
increase in traffic between Rehoboth and Windhoek, especially in the evenings.
Always stop at the police roadblocks, even if it doesn't seem like there is anyone around. The police just
want to check your driver’s licence and ask if you’re carrying any drugs. It also seems to be illegal to transport
fresh meat from the south to the north (probably to control livestock
diseases), so finish your stock before you head out or you might have it
confiscated.
Enjoy!
The landscape may be empty but it is hauntingly beautiful, and it will
help you appreciate the relatively lush terrain further north.
Words by Matt Angus-Hammond (@T2T_Matt) & photos by Tracy Angus-Hammond (@T2T_Trace)
Words by Matt Angus-Hammond (@T2T_Matt) & photos by Tracy Angus-Hammond (@T2T_Trace)
